The weather outside the basement-level Yerevan eatery is below zero, and I sit between friends, perspiring from the multiple layers I donned in the Arabian desert. I wanted to be ready to confront the freezing temperatures and my demons of identity during a mad weekend dash to the remnants of our ancestral kingdom.
The tables at Noyan Restaurant are brimming with food made with love in this hearth. The sons and daughters of Hayk from faraway modern Babylons, a sprinkling of the stars of Armenia, and movers and shakers sing along with the venue’s own master songstress, Gohar Muradyan.
I look around and think I don’t belong at their table and in this room.
Gohar is at home, comfortable in her skin, effortlessly entertaining in a venue where many come from near and far to hear her. She has seen the once-Soviet state proclaim independence, face a war, struggle with democracy and pull itself up and out of the cold years when there was no fuel and no food.
In between her sets, Gohar extends her microphone to colleagues who are guests at the bountiful dinner party. Some, like Ashot Ghazarian, are her peers. Others are young, up and comers, fresh faces like Erik Karapetyan. But then there is Gaby, Gabriella Galoyan.
Gaby came into our world in the year of the Earthquake, and in the stretch of time between her generation’s and Gohar’s, masters taught students like her how to echo the soulful voices of the ancients and how to resonate the sounds that always beckon lost souls back to Hayastan.
Gaby’s medley of our traditional and folks songs channel to life the six-thousand-year history and collective spirit of a people.
I came to lend moral support a week before the launch of this new venture, EVN Report, a platform which will give a voice for those in Armenia, those abroad and those who are always feeling like they’re stuck in between.
I cashed in my frequent flyer miles and made the journey to a place that’s always attracted and sometimes repelled this son of the Diaspora.